Switzerland’s Bluesign announces system revisions

Bluesign has spent recent months modifying the bluesign System Black Limits (BSBL), bluesign System Substances List (BSSL), and bluesign Restricted Substances List (RSL). The modification includes a number of adjustments aimed at making the bluesign Criteria more realistic and linked with the textile sector and its connected areas.

According to Bluesign, the 2022 revision takes into account new scientific knowledge on the toxicological and ecological profiles of substances, the new legal classification of chemical substances, new legal consumer safety limits, revised risk assessments based on the bluesign Criteria for chemical assessment, feedback from Chemical Experts Group experts, and new analytical standards.

A usage ban for enzymes in powder form is defined. Enzymes are employed in textile auxiliaries, as well as denim laundries, for pretreatment and dyeing. The usage of enzymes can result in resource savings (water and energy). Powder-based enzymes will no longer be bluesign approved since they are significant inhalation sensitizers.

Articles finished with PFAS/PFC chemicals – often used for DWR finishing – will be phased out of the bluesign Guide beginning in July 2024. (the search engine for bluesign Approved textiles and trims). After July 2024, authorization of textiles completed with C6-chemistry can be given only in extremely unusual instances (so-called essential applications, such as highly particular personal protection equipment, as described in the upcoming EU regulation on C6-chemistry).

The bluesign System Black Limits (BSBL) establishes threshold limits for chemical compounds found in completed chemical products, such as auxiliaries and dyes. The BSBL substance collection comprises all compounds for which a precautionary hazard-based threshold limit has been established. The BSBL is open to the public and is updated annually.

The bluesign System Substances List (BSSL) establishes chemical compound restrictions in items (consumer safety limits). Only input stream management and the use of appropriate production techniques can achieve BSSL compliance. The BSSL is open to the public and is updated annually.

The bluesign RSL is an extract of the BSSL that includes consumer safety limits as well as suggested testing techniques for the most essential and legally forbidden compounds in textile and leather items and accessories. This RSL may be used by brands and merchants to help them understand the terms and conditions of purchase.

The Bluesign Chemical Expert Group (CEG) will oversee regulatory affairs and evaluate relevance for the textile and related industries, as well as discuss substance candidates for restriction/ban, define limits and testing methods, keep chemical assessment up to date, and drive chemical change management.

Members of the CEG are all bluesign System Partners from the chemical sector who are specialists in product stewardship. Interested individuals from other system partners, as well as organizations and groups, are invited to the annual CEG conference to assist independent decision-making.