OXMAN’s latest research project, Vigils, presents an alternative approach to dyeing by using pigmented bacteria to create colour directly on textile surfaces. Instead of applying synthetic dyes after production, the bacteria grow on the fabric and naturally produce colour, making it part of the material itself.

Inspired by the way nature creates colours in flower petals, butterfly wings, berries, and animal patterns, Vigils uses pigmented bacteria that are cultivated directly on knitted textiles. As the bacteria grow, they generate colour naturally, eliminating the need for conventional dyeing methods.

Although the project is still in the research stage, it demonstrates a new method of colouring textiles that has the potential to reduce the environmental impact associated with traditional dyeing processes.

Vigils builds on more than two decades of research by OXMAN founder Neri Oxman. During her time at the MIT Media Lab, she introduced the concept of Material Ecology, which encourages the development of products, buildings, and materials that function more like living organisms rather than assembled machines.

OXMAN now describes this approach as Nature-Centric Design, where designers work alongside living organisms throughout the manufacturing process rather than simply imitating natural systems.