Naturalls collaboration explores plant-based denim innovation

The Lycra Company, along with AI-driven crop development company Avalo, Pakistani denim mill Neela by Sapphire Fibers Ltd. and Italian textile chemistry company Soko, has developed Naturalls, a denim collection focused on challenges such as water scarcity, energy use and the wider environmental impact of textile production.

“Every piece of clothing starts in a field, with a farmer and a plant working harder than most people realize to keep up with a changing climate. Naturalls is our way of putting that reality in front of the designers and product developers who buy and build with denim every day. We are proving that sustainability in this industry doesn’t have to be a tradeoff between innovation and impact,” said Tricia Carey, Avalo’s chief commercial officer.

The soft fabrics are made using a blend of Avalo’s Low-Footprint Cotton and The Lycra Company’s Renewable Lycra fiber. Avalo’s cotton requires no irrigation, uses 75 percent less fertilizer and produces half the emissions of conventionally grown cotton, according to the companies. The Renewable Lycra fiber contains 70 percent renewable content and can reduce the fiber’s carbon footprint by up to 45 percent compared with equivalent Lycra fiber made from fossil-based resources.

Neela handled the spinning, weaving and garment production for the collection. “As the mill behind this collection, our intent was to create something bigger, smarter, and more natural. This collection is designed in a way that represents innovate fiber solutions and eco-friendly manufacturing with a strong focus on fabric aesthetics, hand feel and visual appeal,” said Zeeshan Ahmed, Neela’s general manager of business development.

For the finishing stage, Soko used two of its technologies, Hydrogel and Rare. Hydrogel turns water into a gel, allowing several finishing treatments to be completed in one bath. According to Soko, the process can cut water use by up to 85 percent, energy use by up to 68 percent and processing time by up to 50 percent. Rare is Soko’s range of naturally derived mineral pigments, which use a natural binder to produce authentic and lasting shades.

Gordon Muir, owner of Labor Made Inc., designed the collection as a tribute to farmers and their role in the denim industry. Naturalls features work pants, jackets, aprons and other pieces inspired by traditional workwear. Muir said the designs take inspiration from the practical clothing worn in the fields where the cotton fibre begins its journey.