Vaude, an outdoor clothing brand, and UPM Biochemicals, a supplier of renewable materials, have collaborated to produce outerwear made with bio-based chemicals.

In an effort to bridge the gap between recycled and sustainable virgin fibers and take performance fashion beyond fossil fuels, UPM and Vaude claim to be making the first fleece jacket made from wood-based polyester.

Traditionally, crude oil-derived mono ethylene glycol (MEG) accounts for 30% of the polyester resin. However, a brand-new bio-mono ethylene glycol (BioMEG) called BioPura, which was developed by UPM, will completely replace this component for UPM and Vaude. Due to its molecular compatibility with conventional MEG, BioPura is a drop-in solution that seamlessly integrates into existing polyester manufacturing processes.

Strong partnerships across the value chain are necessary for bringing about transformative change in the chemical industry. At Indorama Ventures' facility in Guben, Germany, the leading chemical company will polymerize and spin a polyester yarn containing UPM's BioPura BioMEG.

The yarn will then be processed by Pontetorto, a well-known Italian textile manufacturer based in Prato, into an innovative bio-based polyester fabric. This fabric will be used to make the final garment by Vaude.

UPM claims that it is addressing the challenge of reducing the reliance on polymers based on fossil fuels because it recognizes the urgent need for sustainable solutions in the footwear and textile industries. UPM says that fossil fuels are used to make about 60% of the materials used in the fashion industry. UPM intends to replace fossil raw materials in the textile value chain with new, climate-neutral materials derived from sustainably managed forest biomass.

The significance of this partnership was emphasized by UPM vice president of biochemicals Michael Duetsch: With Vaude, we are demonstrating the availability of the next level of sustainable textiles and prototyping a world without fossil fuels. Vaude sets the standard for the entire industry by abandoning textiles based on oil and reducing emissions.

According to UPM, polyester is the most widely used fiber in the world, but only 14.8% of it is currently made from recycled feedstock like PET bottles. Additionally, less than one percent of the materials utilized in the production of clothing are recycled into new garments. As a result, selecting environmentally friendly feedstock presents a "remarkable opportunity."

The senior innovation manager at Vaude, René Bethmann, emphasized the significance of product longevity and sustainability, said, “By incorporating UPM’s bio-based materials, we are able to further explore and unlock the power of renewable circularity – to use less, source from renewable sources, and ensure the product can remain in the value chain after its useful life.”

The first industrial-scale biorefinery in the world will be built in Leuna, Germany, with an investment of €750 million ($823 million) from UPM. The biorefinery will make next-generation biochemicals from certified, sustainably sourced hardwood, easing the transition from fossil-based to renewable materials in a variety of industries.

The biorefinery is expected to start producing by the end of 2023, with a target annual production of 220,000 tons.