EU partners to develop recyclable leather alternatives

European Union along with the the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF), has launched a new project, Fabulose, to develop high-performance, bio-based, and recyclable leather-like fabrics. These materials are being created through efficient biotechnology processes using bacterial cellulose, cyanophycin, and natural bacterial pigments.

Many leather alternatives available today are made from petroleum-based plastics and cannot be recycled. Some options are partly bio-based, but they are often difficult to scale up for large production and challenging to recycle. Supported by the Circular Bio-based Europe Joint Undertaking (CBE JU), the Fabulose project is exploring ways to replace animal-derived materials with eco-friendly solutions.

The project uses advanced fermentation methods and makes use of waste materials as raw inputs. This approach allows for efficient and environmentally responsible production of bacterial cellulose, cyanophycin, and pigments. These bio-based components are combined into a coating system that mimics the look and strength of traditional leather.

DITF’s HighPerCell® technology enables bacterial cellulose to be re-spun into filaments, creating recycled textile backings with strong tensile properties without the use of harmful chemicals. Instead of producing materials in separate batches, this system supports a continuous roll-to-roll process, making future large-scale and cost-effective manufacturing more practical.

Additionally, the project team has gathered market insights to define the most suitable material properties. Eco-design and Safe-by-design principles are being followed to evaluate possible risks and ensure that the materials meet safety and sustainability standards. A digital twin system is also being developed to monitor key production factors and improve material performance through better control and optimisation.