Utah-based company Chloris Biochem is encouraging denim mills and brands to explore a more sustainable approach to achieving the classic denim hue with Claessen Blue, a natural blue dye made from amino acids.

“Denim is the toughest benchmark for color. If you can match the ring-dye look, predictable washdown, and industrial-scale production of indigo, you prove that bio-manufactured color can succeed without compromise,” said Li Li, Chief Brand and Strategy Officer at Chloris. “We focused first on performance, so adoption by mills and brands involves minimal risk.”

Unlike traditional indigo, Claessen Blue is a bio-based blue dye specifically designed to run on existing indigo dyeing lines and replicate indigo-like denim aesthetics. Chloris grows this pigment through microbial fermentation, similar to brewing beer. Agricultural by-products such as corn stover are used as feedstock, and after pigment extraction, the leftover biomass is converted into organic fertilizer.

Compared to synthetic indigo, Claessen Blue is produced using a milder process that eliminates harsh reducers like sodium hydrosulfite and operates under lower alkalinity. This results in cleaner wastewater and reduced water and energy consumption.

Li also emphasized that the company’s process avoids harmful substances like aniline, formaldehyde, and heavy metals. “At the same shade and wash level, trials show fewer rinses and lower chemical inputs, resulting in a cleaner effluent profile,” she noted. “We’re working with partners to assess greenhouse gas reductions through standardized and third-party-reviewed methodologies.”