Scientists grow and dye fabric using living microbes

A new study published in Trends in Biotechnology shows that bacteria can grow fabric and color it, all in the same container. This method could provide a much cleaner alternative to today’s chemical-heavy textile processes.

According to senior author San Yup Lee, a biochemical engineer at the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, the textile industry still depends on synthetic fibers and harsh chemicals, including carcinogens, heavy metals, and hormone-disrupting substances. These practices pollute water, damage soil, and release large amounts of greenhouse gases. The goal, Lee says, is to find a safer and more sustainable solution.

One promising material is bacterial cellulose, a fibrous network naturally produced by microbes during fermentation. It has gained attention as a potential substitute for petroleum-based fibers like polyester and nylon. Lee’s team pushed this idea further by trying to grow cellulose fibers together with bacteria that produce natural pigments.

The team then tested how well the colors survived washing, bleaching, heating, and exposure to acids and alkalis. Most of the fabrics kept their color, and the violacein-based samples even performed better than synthetic dyes in washing tests.

Lee notes that the discovery will not transform the textile industry immediately, but it shows a promising direction. He estimates that bacteria-grown textiles are at least five years away from reaching the market. Challenges include scaling production and competing with cheaper petroleum-based fabrics. Real change will also require consumers to choose sustainability over low cost.