Research unlocks hemp’s potential for mainstream textiles

A new scientific breakthrough by the University of Zagreb’s Faculty of Textile Technology could significantly reshape the role of hemp in the global textile supply chain. The research redefines hemp fibre as a cotton-compatible material that can now be spun on conventional open-end rotor systems.

Published in the journal Cellulose, the study reveals that post-extraction hemp biomass, typically considered agricultural waste, can be transformed into short, spinnable fibres through a combined mechanical and peroxide-based chemical cottonization process. The resulting fibres are suitable for large-scale cotton spinning machinery and have passed critical tensile strength tests when blended with cotton.

This cottonization technique offers a game-changing solution. By aligning hemp fibre characteristics with existing cotton standards, the process allows textile mills to integrate hemp blends without investing in new equipment. It also gives hemp processors the ability to valorize low-value fibre waste, previously discarded after extracting THC or seed oil.

The research addresses key sustainability challenges. Cottonized hemp offers a renewable, biodegradable alternative to water and pesticide intensive cotton and petroleum-based synthetics, while creating a circular system that reduces agricultural waste.

With industrial scalability, reduced environmental impact, and compatibility with current infrastructure, this development paves the way for broader adoption of hemp in apparel and home textiles. It also strengthens sustainable sourcing strategies, enabling brands to move beyond niche eco-materials toward commercially viable circular inputs.