Mycelium
Researchers from Latvia, after reviewing 27 scientific studies, have identified mycelium-based insulation as the most promising reuse option for fast-fashion textile waste. The study highlights the growing challenge of managing mixed and unsorted textile waste, which continues to make up the majority of discarded clothing and home textiles in the EU.
The researchers assessed various reuse and recycling pathways and found that fungal, or mycelium-based, composites used for thermal insulation offered the strongest overall performance. These materials can be produced by growing the fungus Pleurotus pulmonarius on a mix of agricultural residues and ground textile waste, making the process adaptable, relatively easy to scale, and economically attractive compared to other options.
Textile-reinforced composites used in construction ranked as the second most promising solution. This was followed by the recovery of fibres and chemical intermediates such as cotton, nylon, spandex monomers, and BHET, which could support efforts to close the textile recycling loop.
Chemical recycling methods that convert textile waste into bio-oil or terephthalic acid were found to be technically advanced. However, these options scored lower in environmental performance due to high emissions, according to information cited from the European Commission.
The findings closely align with wider EU policy goals, including the strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. This strategy aims to ensure that a significant share of textiles placed on the EU market are recycled by 2030. Proposed expansions to Extended Producer Responsibility rules would place greater responsibility on manufacturers for the full life cycle of textile products, increasing the need for practical and effective recycling solutions.
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