AMSilk introduces spider silk in denim fabrics

AMSilk introduced its spider silk into two denim fabrics developed by Italian mill Pure Denim. One fabric weighs 11.2 ounces and is made from 67 percent cotton and 33 percent spider silk, while the heavier 12-ounce version contains 59 percent cotton and 41 percent spider silk.

According to Benoît Cugnet, head of fiber at AMSilk, sustainability was not the company’s original goal. The initial focus was to find a way to grow and scale spider silk, which is naturally difficult to obtain because spiders cannot be farmed easily. By using bacteria programmed with spider silk DNA, AMSilk succeeded in producing silk protein through fermentation, removing the need for spiders. Scientists then converted this protein into filament yarn.

Cugnet explained that appearance and feel were equally important, especially for luxury uses. He noted that the company managed to create very fine filaments that, when woven or knitted, closely resemble traditional silk in both touch and visual appeal.

Cugnet shared that the Pure Denim fabrics have attracted strong interest from luxury brands due to both their novelty and performance benefits. He noted that demand is currently so high that sampling capacity is under pressure.

In these fabrics, AMSilk is used only in the weft yarns, which increases contact with the skin. This results in a noticeably smoother and softer feel compared to standard cotton denim. While some denim enthusiasts may prefer untreated fabrics, Cugnet added that spider silk performs very well during washing and finishing, giving designers flexibility in design and processing.